Sailaway

 

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VII - We remain in Italy and visit Rome & Livorno, where we are due to catch the ferry to Corsica.

 

To view our previous log entries please use the following link:

The long road journey begins from the UK to Sailaway, based in Carloforte on the Isola San Pietro, Sardinia, we remain in Italy and visit Pisa & Florence.

 

To view our previous log entries please use the following link:

The long road journey begins from the UK to Sailaway, based in Carloforte on the Isola San Pietro, Sardinia, we continue onto the island of Corsica.

 

Log Entry Saturday 20th May - We leave Italy on a ferry to Bastia, Corsica this afternoon.

We have enjoyed our couple of nights in the apartment after six weeks under canvas, made a change, and as they say "A change is as good as a rest!" Our ferry to Corsica sails at 1400 hours, we agree to have the apartment until 1200 instead of 1000, that saves wandering around filling in time?

The checking in procedure is straight forward and fast, there was a problem somewhere we were actually over two hours late boarding? I have arranged as a surprise for Ann a beach site apartment south of Bastia. I call ahead to confirm our late arrival, we will now not reach the apartment until about 2330. Ann is already expressing her disappointment of having to put the tent up in the dark so I break the good news to her!

Once all aboard the departure is rapid, we leave the busy dock lands at speed making for open water. I had informed the Captain that if he had any issues I would help out, but, he seemed ok as I never heard from him?

We got our first glimpse of the Corsican coast just as the sun was falling, we had hoped he would make up some of the lost time but we actually docked about 2.5 hours late! Now to find the apartment in the dark?

 

Log Entry Friday 19th May - We arrived in Livorno last night, we take a look around the city today.

The ferry leaves for Corsica at 1400 hours tomorrow, we have today and tomorrow morning to have a look around Livorno.

We start the morning in Ann's favourite coffee shop which just happens to be outside our apartment. Just across the street is the Piazzale XI Maggio, it's impressive entrance through the old city walls is centred on the green. We decide that today we will make for Fortezza Nuova and it's adjacent areas. The town is a very active port, both public and commercial, not really set up for tourists, perhaps, more of a place you would pass through using the ferries?

The southern area of the town is riddled with canals and waterways, heavily used by small craft all having access to the sea. It has developed the nick name "Venice de Livorno". However the glamour of the original Venice is definitely missing! We came across this building, originally decorated but now completely covered in transparent material, we could not find out why, protection perhaps?

The buildings in the streets were of various designs and levels of up keep, as one would expect, some better than others.

We eventually arrive at Fortezza Nuova and follow it's moat around towards it bridged entrance.

We came first to Piazza Garibaldi, In 1882 this square (then known as, Rangoni) was dedicated to Garibaldi and, in 1889, there was erected the monument to Garibaldi himself. The piazza was fairly full with a second hand, daily market, selling anything from books, tools, shoes and clothes. We watched many people buying. This type of market we had also seen in Rome and Pisa, we grabbed refreshments in one of the two cafe stalls.

We then continued around the moat, next we found Pizza Della Repubblica, it's name speaks for itself. With two large figures dominating the huge square, grates in the ground showed the canal running below ground. Its characteristic oval shape, is actually a large bridge. The square was built above a section of canal which surrounded the Medici city ramparts to connect the old city and new city. The architect Bettarini designed an impressive vault 20 meters long, which the square covers, to cross the Fosso Reale.

Fortezza Nuova (New Fortress) is an impressive building just north of one of Livorno’s main squares. In 1589, Grand Duke Francesco I de’ Medici commissioned architect Bernardo Buontalenti to design the new fortress to protect the city from pirate attacks. The result is the massive structure that stands today. You enter the fortress from the original bridge, the size and strengh of the structure quite over whelming.  

The Fortezza Nuova has a polygonal plan and is constructed almost entirely of red brick. It is surrounded on all sides by a moat and thickly fortified walls. Small piers jut across the moat where the fortress can be accessed from around the city.

Even after the threat of pirate attacks became a thing of the past, the fortress remained in use as a barracks and then later as a warehouse. At the end of the 17th century, with the population of Livorno growing, about two-thirds of the original Fortezza Nuova was demolished to make way for the new neighbourhoods of San Marco and Venice Nuova. It is clear from the many sealed corridors that are many corridors under ground, sealed now for life!

The top of the fortress has been filled and converted into a public park, not a bad one at that too!

The view from the top of it's walls covers the whole neighbourhood, Venice de Livorno better appreciated too.

We wandered through another outside market, this time their goods appeared all new, following it around we came across the Mercato delle Vettovaglie, below.

Mercato delle Vettovaglie

"A majestic covered market built at the end of the 19th century in Neoclassical and Art Nouveau style. A large hall opens in the interior, almost one hundred meters long, with a central entrance and four side entrances. The steel eaves sits on pillars connected to large arches with Baroque brackets. The building has ninety-two cellars while the warehouses are located above the many workshops (more than 180)." The market/stall staff gave the impression that their families had in some cases been there for generations?

It was in there I approached a hairdresser to crop my mop! They understood my needs, 10mm all round as usual! The guy spoke enough English to get the odd laugh or smile from him, he started on the sides. Within a few minutes he called out "too much white you need a change of look!" Off he went, often dancing within his hands as he would cut? This is what he did, I choked the last breath out of him!

I was now a lot cooler, it was just a case of making our short way home to our apartment.

 

Log Entry Tuesday 16th May- We return to the Coliseum area and enter the historic sites as we ran out of time yesterday.

This morning we were quite taken by the green parrot like birds in the tree above us, very noisy and fast, same tree every morning, for an hour or so, then gone for the day?

We bought a ticket for all, the first area to visit being the Coliseum, it's build began around 72AD by Vespasian and completed by his son Titus in 80AD - could we build it that fast today, I ask? There used Jewish prisoners to construct the building. It's true name was "Flavian Amphitheatre, elliptical in shape measuring 187m x 155m around 50m in height from the ground. Of coarse the under ground chambers and tunnels added to that. Although used to stage various events we are all fully aware of, I had not realised that the coliseum was also flooded and they restage naval battles too. The whole arena had the ability to be covered over in case of rain, or too much sun, a large velarium , manoeuvred into place by sailors belong to the actual fleets?

The coliseum has itself been developed over the centuries, but beaten down by earthquakes, until in 1349 it became a quarry for building materials. Pope Benedict XIV (1740-1758) consecrated the old amphitheatre to cease it's decay.

Of coarse, Ann being Ann found herself in the hands of some characters, she thought she had been arrested? Very disappointed when they asked her for money for allowing the photograph!!

The Roman Forum brought on even more wonders, the Arch of Septimius Severus, amazing thinking how long it has weathered.

 

 

The treasures of the Roman Forum go on and on, the excavated ancient dwelling on the Palatine Hill stretch as far as the eyes can see. In the true Roman era, Palatine Hill was said to be the centre of Rome, the magnificent homes of the Senate ect. Today, beyond the excavations Palatine Hill is still the centre of the mayor and municipality of Rome, remaining the very centre of Roman life.

The remaining statue of Julius Caesar, still stands out side of his temple.

Leaving the ruins todays Palatine Hill is full of grand municipal building.

With the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument holding centre stage!

 

 

Log Entry Monday 15th May - We visit the Coliseum, Roman Forums & Palatine Hill.

Today we plan our first of two visits, today we hope to gain a good incite into the area, it's size and what we hope to cover in the next couple of days?

In our small wooded area, every day as we wake, we see something of interest. This morning in the nearby trees a two meter wooden aeroplane wind vane with propellers and all.

We were quite shocked by our findings as we reach the coliseum area, all we plan to see today is here but we very quickly realise that we cannot see all in a single day? It is hard to describe the sites before you as you walk out of the metro station, you stand and look around the immediate area before you - unbelievable. This is the most visited site in Italy apparently, easy to see why. The coliseum towers above you, original and rebuilt sections help you appreciate what was involved in building this structure with what methods they had available to them?

The Arch of Constantine was originally built for the Senate and the people at the edge of the Forum in memory of the victory over Maxentius at Ponte Milvo in 312AD. It is said to have been built from pieces from the arches of Trajan, Marcus Aurelius and other monuments within the Forum.

As we round the Arch of Constantine to make for the Forms and Palatine Hill security is again very strong, both in uniform and civilian dress. As you climb the ramp up to the entrance of the Forms you begin to gain real size of the excavations, they seem to go on and on.

Looking across the valley and up Palatine Hill you can see temple after temple, monuments and grand building.

In the far distance sits the magnificent Vittorio Emanuele II Monument, it rises from the foot of the Capital Hill. Developed over the centuries it stay plays a key figure in the centre of the city.

The views were astounding, if not for the modern ongoing excavations and restorations you would think it was an ancient Roman City?

We had fallen for the whole area, we now needed to establish the best way to get around all, during our next visit.

 

Log Entry Saturday 12th May - We visit the Vatican to try and seek "What's His Name's" blessing!

The first problem you have in Rome is what do you visit? To visit every place of interest would take you weeks, you have to be quite specific as to what you favour. We met people who were here for the second and third holiday, still working through their list of places to see? We had decided on three main areas, the Vatican, the Coliseum, Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum. Anything else was a bonus!

The site where we were staying had an excellent Information Centre, the lady working within was extremely helpful. It turned out that we were on a direct train line to the centre of Rome, which was supported by an excellent metro system and bus service. Our trip to the Vatican only involved a single train and metro journey.

As you approach the surrounding wall of the Vatican City and the buildings within one can only describe it as impressive, if not, colossal? Then I developed a slight sense of anger as it's occupant, the Pope can often be heard talking about "world peace" and addressing "poverty", you could not even imagine what the running costs of this centre must be? It clearly, on a positive note, generates £millions of tourism cash from the vast number of people visiting?

We walk down the city wall to the general entrance, past one of the private entrances, guarded by guys in tradition uniforms. Standing on the inside of the gate tucked away out of sight, heavily armed military, once again the sign of the times.

As you enter through the arches into the main piazza you pass the Vatican Post Office, quite unique.

As you pass through the immaculate columns, and through security, the view before you can only be describes as "palatial!" Every figurine, every fountain and statue, every detail appears perfect, not even a dirty rain water stain can be seen any where. All cues into the sacred areas are managed, some almost a kilometre long, we gave those a miss, too hot to stand around for a couple of hours.

Away from the main area, where speeches, etc are made the strand and its building are also so impressive, difficult to describe in words other than "perfect".

The cues went on and on, plenty of formal stands selling cold drinks and food.

We thought we would take a look inside the Vatican gift and coffee shop, we were so lucky to bump into his "Worship". He had heard of our travels and was pleased to have been able to say "Hi" to us as we visited!

After refreshments, it was now just a case of making our way back to the campsite. We had take the metro to the area of Flaminio where we would pick up our train. We took the opportunity to have a quick look into the "Piazza del Popolo as we made our way to the train station, an interesting day out!

 

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